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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary honour.